Eking out
every last possible bit of time from the
day, while probing the lilies and standing
timber with a surface lure, I was awed by
the dramatic sunset unravelling before me.
As I watched, the colours of the dying day
changed through fascinating shades,
cascading colours with a pin-sharp crispness
so typical of the lowveld. Moved to silence,
I sat a while after it was too dark to place
an accurate cast, just sucking every last
moment from the day - again remiss at not
making more time to fish the dam... or its
sister impoundment known as Mlelezi a short
distance away. Even after night had fallen,
a blood red stain hung on the western
horizon, a warm glow providing company on
the drive back from the dam. Nestled in the
south eastern lowveld of Zimbabwe, is
Malangani Dam.
Relatively new
(built around 1995), and until recently
un-fished, this tantalising 300
hectare dam bristles with drowned
structure (miles of drowned timber, rocky
outcrops, large standing beds of rushes,
lily pads and oxygen weed) and a host of
water flora... the stuff big fish dreams are
made of.
I had been
fortunate to visit the dam while on the
ranch featuring the hunting camp. During my
afternoon sortie on Malangani, I berated
myself for not allowing more time, and
bringing a boat! Around the water's edge,
great banks of bull rushes have sprung up
making bank access quite difficult, although
closer to the dam wall I found a granite
outcrop which sloped into the dam, giving
easy access to floating lily pads, and
varied underwater weed and brush-type
structure created when the bush was flooded.
This
historically significant area was once one
of the most diverse of Africa's bushveld.
Traversed by pioneers in the 1800's as they
trekked ever further north across the
Limpopo between the Tuli Block and Shashe
River, it became home in the early 1900's to
settler cattle ranchers. While the game
slowly disappeared over the intervening
century, cattle ranching was not sustainable
in these often harsh and unforgiving climes.
It was only a matter of time before this
ranching venture - one of the biggest to be
implemented by man - crumbled under the
pressure of the environment, and in the
early 1990's the million acre plus Liebigs
Ranch was divided up into smaller blocks,
all of which - like Malangani - reverted
back to wildlife.
As a result, visitors are likely to see many
different plainsgame species while driving
in, or even at the dam itself. Animals
include sable, waterbuck, kudu, tsessebe,
wildebeest, zebra and giraffe. The ranch
also supports a healthy population of
cheetah and wild (painted hunting) dog, both
of which are rare sightings by visitors, but
attest to the natural state being restored.
Future plans include the re-introduction of
key species such as roan, red hartebeest,
gemsbok and nyala, with elephant, rhino and
lion to be included.
Malangani is bounded by the Bubye River
Conservancy, and sprawls over 155 000 acres
of pristine Lowveld bush (some 60km long by
20km wide). A well developed and maintained
(dirt) road network makes access to most
light vehicles possible for most of the
year. However, the council roads to the
ranch will require 4x4 during the height of
the wet season (January to March).
Fully fenced and patrolled by a force of
over 40 game scouts, the ranch is both
secure and intact. Managed partly for
international hunting, visiting
fishermen are restricted to the environs
around the dam, a place where the
wildlife often gathers to drink. Hunting is
prohibited close to the dam, and is in fact
only really carried out many miles away in
the other sectors of the ranch... this place
being reserved as a sanctuary. The dam's
water is not used for any form of
irrigation, providing a very stable haven
for the fish populations throughout the
year.
Sited at the base of Malangani Mountain - a
sacred tribal monolith, and the ranch's
namesake, the dam and its surrounds are
spectacular.
John Sharp
- professional hunter and ranch manager -
has constructed Malangani fishing lodge
to be an affordable yet comfortable
retreat for local and regional anglers.
Offered only as a self cater
facility, the complex has a communal
kitchen/storeroom area complete with gas
deepfreeze for use by all occupants. Two
brick under thatch lodges (each
sleeping four people) with en-suite
toilet/basin/shower and hot and cold running
water, offer comfortable
accommodations.
Aside from
these two "family" units, John has tried to
cater to the bigger fishing parties who do
not mind sharing, building a dorm complex
with separate ablution block. The dorm block
- basically one large open lodging with low
level dividing walls - will comfortably
accommodate up to 18 people (beds and
mattresses supplied).
Lighting is provided by a 12V system,
with visitors needing to supply the
batteries. It is possible to park a
vehicle under the eves of the lodge, and
connect the lighting direct to the vehicle.
Each lodge has its own outdoor braai and
entertainment area with sweeping views of
the dam. While each chalet has beds and
mattresses, guests bring everything else,
from linen to toiletries, and obviously food
and drink.
Basically there are no stoves or kitchens to
speak of, and visitors must either bring
their own gas facilities, or simply use
the braai. Wood is provided, and a general
camp hand is available to keep the hot water
boilers burning, supply wood, and maintain
the surrounds. Further testament to John
Sharp's understanding of Mr. Average Angler,
is the provision of domestic accommodation
for those wanting to take along their own
staff.
Close to the chalets, a flat rock disappears
into the water, providing an ideal natural
launching ramp accessible by even two wheel
drive vehicles.
Security on
the ranch is not a problem, and boats can be
left in the water overnight, within easy
sight of the chalets. Planing is permitted
on the dam, although anglers are asked to be
careful of the thick submerged structure -
and refrain from planing too close to the
dam wall.
The dam is linked to the Limpopo drainage
system and as such has many indigenous
species. In addition, niloticus
(Nile bream) are present, as are
Bass.
In the photo
below, Tim Martin displays
a 10lb4oz Bass taken at Malangani. During
the course of the morning, Tim boated
several other Bass all over 3lb including an
8 and 9 pounder in addition to this one over
10lb!
Next up is
Barrie Duckworth with a
7lb2oz Bass:
One of the
managers on the ranch, gives the
bream a regular hiding. Many fair
sized bream have been taken from the dam on
traditional worm rigs, while several
Bassmaster leagues have been fished on the
dam by anglers visiting from Bulawayo and
Chiredzi.
The surrounding bush is beautiful in every
respect, and the birdlife outstanding. The
towering granite dome of Malangani behind
the chalets, makes for an interesting and
worthwhile climb, giving spectacular views
to the horizon.
Malangani dam and its facilities are the
ideal place for the majority of Africa's
typical anglers and their families. The
basics are provided - a roof that does not
leak, clean, comfortable place to sleep, and
a hot shower - and at a very affordable
cost. Regional and international
visitors required (by government) to pay in
foreign currency (rates available on
application). Even by international
standards though, rates are very reasonable.
The dam is easily reached from either the
Masvingo/Beit Bridge highway (about 40km
of dirt from the main road), making it
an ideal stop off for travellers between
Zimbabwe and South Africa. Fuel is not
available on the ranch, so fill up before
leaving the main road.
