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TECHNIQUES
A. Using Bait Clips/ Bait Slides
Bait Clips
or Bait Slides are great South African inventions which have
revolutionised surf angling. They definitely work and
are worth a try!
1. The "Normal" Bait Clip/ Slide ("Cuda Clip")
The "Normal" Bait Clip/ Slide is usually used to
get a live bait (mullet, shad/ bluefish) out into
deeper water when fishing from a pier or high rocks.
This method is not used for dead baits as the surf
action and swell will tend to work a dead bait back to
shore.
Attach a grapnel sinker (5oz - 8oz) to your mainline
shock leader with 18" of line at least the same diameter
as your shock leader (0.60mm - 0.90mm diameter) to the
ring supplied with the bait clip. On to the swivel
(or smaller metal "loop") attached to this ring tie your mainline shock leader.
Now cast the sinker out as far as you wish and anchor
the sinker. Place the rod in a rod holder. Attach your
trace with live bait to the swivel on the bait clip. Now
attach the bait clip to the main line. With the "Normal"
Bait Clip, there is only one way in which the clip can
be attached to the mainline. Keep the mainline tight,
lift the rod tip and slide the live bait slowly over the
shore break surf into the water. "Work" the bait by
shaking the rod tip up and down in constant fashion
until the bait swims freely down to the sinker.
The live bait can move up and down (shallower and
deeper) the mainline until it is picked up by a predator
fish.
Keep the line fairly tight even if the rod is in a rod
holder. Engage ratchet or thumb the spool. Give line
during a "pick-up" (don't rush, count at least to 10)
and then strike (not if you're using circle hooks!) and
wind to connect with sinker and fish. The ring and
swivel above the sinker stops the bait clip and prevents
any abrasion to the rig.
Any live bait and livebait trace can be used and
connected to the bait clip.
2. The "Non-return" Bait Clip/ Slide
The "Non-return" Bait Clip/ Slide is very
versatile and can be used to get any size live or
dead bait out into deeper water and keep it
there. This method may be used anywhere (gently sloping
beaches, steep shelving beaches, rocks or piers).
The method is similar to that for the "Normal" Bait
Clip.
Attach a grapnel sinker (5oz - 8oz) to your mainline
shock leader with 18" of line at least the same diameter
as your shock leader (0.60mm - 0.90mm diameter) to the
ring supplied with the bait clip. On to the swivel
attached to this ring tie your mainline shock leader.
Now cast the sinker out as far as you wish and anchor
the sinker. Place the rod in a rod holder. Attach your
trace with bait (live or dead) to the swivel on the bait
clip. Now attach the bait clip to the main line. With
the "Non-return" Bait Clip, make sure the long end of
the clip with the swivel points away from the rod tip
and towards the sea when attaching the clip to the
mainline. Keep the mainline tight, lift the rod tip
and slide the bait slowly over the shore break surf into
the water. "Work" the bait by shaking the rod tip up and
down in constant fashion until the bait slides down to
the sinker.
When the bait (livebait or dead bait) is attached to the
mainline, the natural ebb and flow of the wave action
and swells carry the bait out into deeper water. The
simple, but unique design of the clip enables it to
"lock" onto the line (without damaging the line) during
the period when the water is "pushing" to shore, yet
enables the clip to slide when the water "sucks" back
with the backwash. The bait therefore moves out further
with every wave cycle until it reaches the sinker or the
bait is picked up.
Keep the line fairly tight even if the rod is in a rod
holder. Engage ratchet or thumb the spool. Give line
during a "pick-up" (don't rush, count at least to 10)
and then strike (not if you're using circle hooks!) and
wind to connect with sinker and fish. The ring and
swivel above the sinker stops the bait clip and prevents
any abrasion to the rig.
Any live or deadbait and any trace can be used and
connected to the bait clip.
3. I would recommend that you get your
non-return bait clips from
Dup (dup-zn@webmail.co.za;
074-103-7036).
For more details
and pics, click
here.
Dup's non-return
clips/ slides are stronger and better quality
than you can buy in the stores and are cheaper
too! His products and workmanship are highly
recommended. Prices are reasonable and Dup will
post to anywhere in SA.
4. Otherwise, the bait clips can be bought at any
good tackle shop such as:
(in
Durban: (031) 368-3903);
Basil Manning
Fishing Equipment (in Durban:
(031) 368-1326); or
Gremlin's
(in Margate:
(039) 317-3233).
Seems like the Bait Clips are catching on in the
USA and Britain as well, see:
http://breakawayusa.com/shop/slideaway.jpg
5. Also check out
Fishing the Silver Tide by
John Otto
(Be sure to read Parts
1 - 4 of this Article)
for more information and inspiration.
TACKLE
A.
Rods
You can probably build a
better rod than you can buy, but for most anglers, there
are some excellent new rods available in the local
retail trade.
South African style
Surfcasting rods generally have the reel seat placed 9"
- 12" from the butt cap. The (conventional) reel is
generally controlled with the left hand during the cast.
1. Check out the
Assassin range of 3-piece surf rods marketed by
Basil Manning
Fishing Equipment (contact
Andrew Pautz or Barry Wareham on
tel. (031) 368-1326):
 You will probably find a
lot to like in these rods ...
These rods are built on
Blue Marlin blanks. Click
here
for more info on rod blanks a Rodbuilding.
2.
Kingfisher
offers the Poseidon range of
3-piece surf rods:
3.
 Another South
African brand (now also marketed in the USA and
Australia), worth looking at.
They have been around for many years and have a solid
reputation.
4. Western Accessories
offers rods
built on
award-winning,
record-holding, cutting-edge technology British-made
blanks.
B.
Reels
1. Conventional or
multiplier Reels
Preferences here will
undoubtedly give rise to some hot debates, but check
out:
Any ABU reel with model
number 6000 and up to 10 000 is worth looking at,
especially if you are prepared to fiddle a bit! You can
upgrade the drag system (using the appropriate
"Smooooothies" or "Xtreme
Smooooothies" drag washers) and/or the bearing
system (using ceramic bearings). Check out the Reel
Candy link at
Hatteras
Outfitters.
I have fished with an ABU
8000C and 10 000C for about 2 decades!
-
Daiwa: Look at the
Grandwave and Saltiga
and Saltist ranges. Many Surfcasters swear by the Saltiga
range. Expensive yes, but well-made and reliable (some
would say they outdo the Shimano Trinidads!
For a comparison of these two great reels, click
here).
2. Spinning Reels
As with anything, you
usually get what you pay for ... Most spinning reels
which will last in the salt and which will be tough
enough to handle saltwater fish are really expensive.
Look for front drag reels to give bigger drag surface
area.
Also look at the EM
Pro, EM-X and Black Gold
Series.
C.
Line
1. Monofilament
I generally do not use
mono for mainline anymore, rather opting for the spectra
(braid) superlines in 50lb, 65lb or 80lb test depending
upon the circumstances and the species pursued.
I always use a shock
leader (long enough so that there are 4 - 6 turns of
shock leader on the reel when casting) of Stren
Original clear or Maxima clear in
0.60mm or 0.90mm diameter depending upon the
circumstances and the species pursued.
Reliable brands of mono
for mainlines are Stren, Trilene,
Atlas, Siglon and
Sufix.
2. Braid
If you have not yet tried
the spectra (braid) superlines on both conventional and
spinning reels, you are missing something!
Go for 50lb, 65lb or 80lb
test depending upon the circumstances and the species
pursued. The 50lb test diameter braid is equivalent to
12lb test mono in diameter!
Always use a mono
shock leader with the superlines when you
are fishing in the surf. The shock leader must be long
enough so that there are 4 - 6 turns of shock leader on
the reel when casting. Good shock leader material is
Stren Original clear or Maxima
clear in 0.60mm or 0.90mm diameter depending upon the
circumstances and the species pursued. You can join 50lb
test braid to 0.60mm mono easily enough with a Uni-Knot
(6 turns for the mono; double the braid and use at least
12 turns for the braid section of the knot) or if you
are able to, use the Bimini Twist knot.
The only disadvantage
of the superlines is they do not like rocks - any
contact with a rock and you will be cut off. Also be
careful when fishing graphite rods with superlines and
you get hung up on the bottom - if you try and pull free
using the rod, you may end up breaking it. In any event,
its never a good idea to use the rod when attempting to
break off a snag!
My recommendation for
spinning in the surf with lures (also light
surf and gully bait fishing) is 50lb test superline/
braid. Use a 0.60mm mono shock leader and 0.40mm -
0.70mm mono trace (or a trace of 20lb - 40lb test
fluorocarbon).
For medium tackle
in the surf, use 50lb - 65lb test superline/ braid for you
mainline with a 0.60mm - 0.70mm mono shock leader. Traces as
above according to species pursued.
For heavy tackle in
the surf, try 65lb - 80lb test superline/ braid for you
mainline with a 0.75mm - 0.90mm mono shock leader. Traces as
above with the option of nylon-coated wire for toothy
critters.
See how you like it - I
doubt you will go back to regular mono after giving the
superlines a fair trial!
3. Leader (trace)
material
For traces, I
generally go for Stren Original clear or
Maxima clear in 0.50mm - 0.90mm
diameter depending upon the circumstances and the
species pursued.
Another option is
Seaguar Fluorocarbon in 30lb or 40lb test, for a
near invisible presentation. Fluorocarbon is, however,
stiffer than mono and takes much longer to degrade.
4. Shock Leader
material
Stren Original
clear or Maxima clear in 0.60mm or
0.90mm diameter depending upon the circumstances and the
species pursued. Maxima is quite stretchy
and suits being teamed up with a superline and a
graphite rod.
Always use a shock leader
whether you are fishing with a mono or Superline/ braid
mainline. Generally, 0.60mm diameter mono is the minimum
for a shock leader. This will suit 12 - 20lb test mono
mainline and 50 - 65lb superline/ braid mainline.
If you are using a shock
leader, you will probably never have to use over 20lb
test mono mainline (unless you are fishing heavy tackle
off the rocks in a snag infested area or are after large
sharks, rays and skates).
D.
Terminal Tackle
1. Hooks
If you have not done so
yet, give circle hooks a try for bait (live bait
and deadbait) fishing. Great for catch and release as
fish are usually hooked securely in the corner of the
mouth limiting tissue damage.
Mustad light wire
Circle Hook
One just has to "unlearn"
the ingrained striking technique usually employed with
normal (J-type) hooks, otherwise you will hook less
fish! With circle hooks, one generally just tightens the
line by "winding down" and "taking the strain"
without any sudden rod movements ("striking"
action).
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